The once dark horse in Italy’s stiletto heel, Puglia has remained in a time warp between the country’s pastoral past and contemporary-chic present. Its hillsides hide whitewashed villages among vast olive groves and the coastline reflects its proximity to sun-bleached Greece. There’s an authentic side here within the conical roofs of UNESCO World Heritage site, Alberobello, and in hilltop Ostuni with its ivory cathedral centre piece.