Lost in navigation

In the north of Bali, roads zig-zag past boutiques selling handcrafted bamboo lamps, smooth teak tables and rows of delicate pottery. Then, out of nowhere, the Ubud jungle merges with the bustling high-street offering respite and relaxation when you need it, particularly after a long flight. Lizards skitter up trees, palm-sized butterflies float up to the sky and scarlet-headed flowerpeckers do as their name suggests.

It’s no wonder the Hindu culture here has a deep reverence for nature; it is entirely inseparable from human existence. Uniting the body with these elements can be done with a deeply spiritual holy water blessing by a local priest at the 11th century temple, Pura Mengening. Afterwards, celebrations are brought to a head with a ‘babi guling’, or suckling pig, at the home of Bapak Enong Ismail, a local museum curator. Locals and visitors alike tuck into this rich Balinese meal filling the air with turmeric, coriander, lemongrass and shared laughter.

Where to stay: Just 10 minutes from downtown Ubud, Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve embodies the spirit of the area completely. Hidden in a cocoon of giant leaves and tall palms, the spa absorbs the quiet lull of the Ayung River and the suites back onto mesmerising views of surrounding rice paddy layers, which are stacked up like delicate slices of green cake.

A short flight to Flores changes the landscape from lush, leafy jungle to turquoise waters. The best way to see the island is aboard a boat. The surrounding marine protected areas make this the most remarkable place to snorkel in Indonesia, with coral that’s vividly alive. Fluorescent yellow anemones and watermelon pink sponges carpet the rocks. Schools of multicoloured fish flit between legs and through rocks, while spotting turtles becomes child’s play.

Looking above the water is equally mesmerising; you might catch glimpses of glistening grey dolphins feeding on fish or whales moving along their migration route. Gazing up at night brings its own surprises too. Every evening, a migration of fruit bats make the daily journey from water-logged mangroves to Flores, filling the sky with thick splatters of silhouettes. Sitting in the dark, senses heightened, it’s hard not to appreciate the majesty of nature’s magic pattern.

Where to stay: The elegance of old-world sailing is best experienced aboard the Vela. Impressive canvas sails billow in the wind on this luxury yacht that sleeps 12, making everyone onboard feel like an intrepid explorer – but with bountiful luxuries to hand. Expert diving explorers, wellness therapists and interiors finished in Hermès fabrics and custom local teak furniture make sailing the seas simply celestial.